Ski Builders Knowledge Base
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Core profiling

Category: Tools & equipmentCompiled from 4 source threads

Quotes are verbatim and attributed to their original authors.

Core profiling is the shaping of a ski or snowboard's wooden core so that it is thickest underfoot and tapers toward the tip and tail. Because the core carries most of the ski's stiffness, its thickness profile is the primary means of tuning the flex pattern. Home builders most often profile cores with a benchtop thickness planer, feeding the core on a purpose-built tapered sled — a "crib" or "cat track" — that presents the desired thickness curve to the cutter head.

Contents

  1. Target thickness
  2. The planer crib
  3. Snipe at the ends
  4. Holding the core down
  5. Depth and number of passes
  6. Source threads

Target thickness

Profiles are described by three numbers giving thickness in millimetres at the tip, underfoot, and tail — for example 2-12-2. Underfoot thicknesses in the journals cluster around 11–13 mm, tapering to roughly 2–3.5 mm at the ends, with the exact figures chosen to suit the builder's weight and the ski's intended use. Starting stock is a wood blank a little over the finished underfoot thickness, planed down in stages.

The planer crib

The core is not fed through the planer directly; it rides on a sled whose top surface is cut to the inverse of the desired profile, so that a flat planer pass leaves a tapered core. Builders emphasise how much faster and more repeatable this makes the job once built.

"I finally got around to making a planer crib for profiling my cores. I never thought I could have a core profiled in 5 minutes! I should have done this from the start. I used brad nails to secure the spacers to the bottom frame so it is easy to pop them off and change them if necessary… My test core came out pretty darn good. It came out to within a tenth of a mm of my design specs."
— Dr. Delam, 2009 · thread #1801, "Soul Skis"

To keep the core located on the sled without shifting during a pass, the same builder later moved from adhesives to mechanical locating pins, which double as reference points for the layup:

"Before profiling, I drilled two holes in the core… I then put two screws in my planer crib to fit in these holes to keep the core from moving while planing. I screwed them in so the heads would be below the finished planing depth of course. This worked out well as I never had to check to see if the center was aligned and no need to buy grip tape."
— Dr. Delam, 2009 · thread #1801, "Soul Skis"
The step-by-step photographs that accompanied this thread were hosted on Photobucket and are no longer available online; the written method above is complete on its own.

Snipe at the ends

The most-discussed pitfall is "snipe" — the deeper cut a planer takes at the leading and trailing ends of a workpiece, caused by the gap between its feed rollers. The distance between those rollers sets how long the core must be to escape it.

"What's the distance between the feed rollers on your planer? … The only way I have found to resolve the leading and trailing edge from lifting (and chipping in my case) is to leave 4" of drop on both ends and extending the flat section of the crib so that the core reaches the pressure of the exit roller before the feed roller starts pressing the core down to create the profile."
— dbtahoe, 2009 · thread #1801, "Soul Skis"
"The distance between the rollers is 5 1/16" so I made the crib and test cores long enough to accommodate the snipe at the ends… Snipe is an inherent problem in all planers due to the distance between feed rollers. If you run your cores long and cut off the snipeage you should be good."
— Dr. Delam, 2009 · thread #1801, "Soul Skis"

Holding the core down

Several hold-down methods appear, from adhesives to mechanical pins. Grip surfaces stop the blank sliding under the cutter; the trade-off is how easily the core can be swapped between passes.

Depth and number of passes

Cores are taken down gradually. Posts converge on small bites over many passes, guided by the planer manufacturer's limits for the stock width.

"We usually take off a very small amount each time. I think we probably take off 1mm each time for a total of 10-12 passes since we start with a core blank that is roughly 13-14mm thick and we profile down to 2-12-2."
— shopvac, 2009 · thread #1801, "Soul Skis"
"Your planer manual should give the recommended material removal for a given width of stock and type of material. My manual says 3 mm max for material under 150 mm wide. When in doubt, go with more passes."
— Dr. Delam, 2009 · thread #1801, "Soul Skis"

On equipment, builders in these threads used inexpensive 13-inch benchtop planers (the Ridgid 13" model is named repeatedly as good value), and note that a self-locking depth adjustment and sharp, recently-changed blades both help consistency — bamboo flooring stock in particular is hard on knives.

Source threads