Cutting out flesh on tip/tail with no edge

Hello everyone,

if there any guys doing powder boards or skis with no edges on the tip and tail?

I tried to make a few snowboards with small fish tail but was not sure about making tail with no edges after effective zone.

I am not sure that it will be possible to follow the curve of the snowboard contour on the place that do not have the edge since nothing will hold blade if something goes wrong.

What methods do you use to cut flesh on boards and skis with no continuous edge?

Here is picture how I do it for now, but I would like to make deeper tail.

Thanks for attention

Just per hand and eye. You have the base as template. Cutting with the saw and grinding with belt sander.

Btw. very nice base graphics you have!

What mammuth said. Just use the base as a guideline and be careful during cutting/sanding.

Is that base graphic sublimated? Looks really sharp!

Looks almost like its sublimated on the glide side of the base!?

> mammuth wrote:Looks almost like its sublimated on the glide side of the base!?
Thanks, Tom. The sublimation was performed on the rough treated side. The pic you see is glide contact side.

> chrismp wrote:
Is that base graphic sublimated? Looks really sharp!
Yes, this is sublimation.

Basically it very depend on the graphic you make and color of inks. Some colors look more straight than the other. Thin lines (less than 2 mm) are the biggest problem.

Here are some pics of very small objects.

Closer look

I just use a jigsaw with the ski base side up and follow close to the edge of the base without touching it. Not hard after some practice. Then as the others said using a belt or drum sander to clean it up back to the base material. I use a drum covered in sandpaper that mounts in a drill press. With a deep swallow tail you would need to use something like that (drill press drum, bobbin sander or a sanding drum mounted to a dremel maybe) as a long belt sander or hand held belt sander would be hard to get right up into the deepest part of the swallow tail.

Ey falls. This drum thingy looks nice. Do you have more info / links ?

> falls wrote:I just use a jigsaw with the ski base side up and follow close to the edge of the base without touching it.
Hi, Falls. By the by, do you use carbide blades or blades for metal?

I really like the oscillating belt and spindle sander made by Ridgid tools. The oscillating helps the belt or spindle wear more evenly. By using the belt along the edge it prevents putting too much pressure on any one area and helps give a smooth edge along the entire length. No subtle nicks from a spindle that potentially need filing out.

https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/oscillatin ... dle-sander

I use a jigsaw blade for metal, they cut the fibreglass better.

I got the 3 inch diam by 3 inch length drum sander from lee valley tools I think or one of the other USA woodworking stores. I don't have the bearng support bit but it would be nice because I definitely get a bit of deflection on the drum (it doesn't really matter because I bevel the sidewall anyway)

http://www.rockler.com/15-piece-drum-sa ... nt-sleeves Rockler.

I think the bearing support comes from lee valley. You can recess it into a tabletop to get a sanding surface all the way down to the table level.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.a ... 01&p=20200

I really like these for cutting flash - best I've found. The zero kerf lets me cut flush to edges without damaging them, and they seem to last longer than others by far. You can get them at Home Depot even cheaper than Amazon - I think about 12 bucks for 5.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J1CSWI/?c ... _lig_dp_it

> rnordell wrote:I really like the oscillating belt and spindle sander made by Ridgid tools. The oscillating helps the belt or spindle wear more evenly. By using the belt along the edge it prevents putting too much pressure on any one area and helps give a smooth edge along the entire length. No subtle nicks from a spindle that potentially need filing out.

https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/oscillatin ... dle-sander

That is awesome device, newer seen it before. Once I saw something similar, but way bigger on NS factory tour. It works the same way up and down. It really saves sandpaper.

If it were possible to add some kind of emulsion, it would be great!

> falls wrote:
I got the 3 inch diam by 3 inch length drum sander from lee valley tools I think or one of the other USA woodworking stores. I don't have the bearng support bit but it would be nice because I definitely get a bit of deflection on the drum (it doesn't really matter because I bevel the sidewall anyway)

http://www.rockler.com/15-piece-drum-sa ... nt-sleeves Rockler.

I think the bearing support comes from lee valley. You can recess it into a tabletop to get a sanding surface all the way down to the table level.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.a ... 01&p=20200
Great setup!Newer seen it. Sometimes I use drum sander for fishtails, it can be set up on the same device I use for cutting edges.

> kit wrote:I really like these for cutting flash - best I've found. The zero kerf lets me cut flush to edges without damaging them, and they seem to last longer than others by far. You can get them at Home Depot even cheaper than Amazon - I think about 12 bucks for 5.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J1CSWI/?c ... _lig_dp_it

I use blades for metal as Falls does, but they lasts way to quick. One blade is enough for one board. I also figured out that lifetime of blades depend upon sidewall material. The worst thing is ABS. It melts really fast and plastic stuck in between blade teeth and it makes really hard to cut flash. UHMWPE is much better in this regard. I do not know how urethane will show itself.

I like to use this little hand held belt sander for any situation like sanding a little flash off. You can hold this sander on edge pretty easily in one hand. I use it quite a bit and it is more compact and cheaper than a larger tool on a floor stand.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-Cabl ... /203162805

Yikes, just saw these were discontinued so I ordered a back-up for $114

Nice find, thanks. Anybody knows similar machines which you can get outside US? I found just one from triton, dont know about this brand and quality. looks little bit cheapish but for under $/€ 100 not much to loose

http://www.tritontools.com/en-GB/Produc ... ders/TCMBS

> 24Dave wrote:I like to use this little hand held belt sander for any situation like sanding a little flash off. You can hold this sander on edge pretty easily in one hand. I use it quite a bit and it is more compact and cheaper than a larger tool on a floor stand.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-Cabl ... /203162805

Yikes, just saw these were discontinued so I ordered a back-up for $114

Discontinued? Too bad, these are great little tools. Been using mine for years to do precision sanding, like feathering core thickness to match tip filler perfectly.

yep SHIF discontinued, but still widely available.

mammuth, I have large Triton planer, it is a beast, runs smooth and has had no issues so far.

Cool Dave. The small triton is quite cheap, here in EU around €70. Got one for 37€ (Amazon - cosmetic damage) ... nothing to loose

Got the little Triton. Nice small machine, especially for the price. Dave i will think about you doing my nxt boards, my arm will be happy with 2kg lighter machine

Only thing on these small machines, you feel the glued part (hump) of the sanding belt more then with a heavy machine.

I wonder if its better to use belts for wood or for metal. Need to try.

Huh, I haven't noticed that at all with the belts I have been using. There are probably better belts out there with smoother joints than what you have right now.