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13 SKIS Building proces

Posts: 21 · 21 posts
dvollebregt

Hi all,

I'm new here, i'm from the Netherlands, Amsterdam. A few weeks ago I decided to build my own skis. In this topic I will post the progress!

I will probably ask some questions here and there

Duco

First design:

Wood:

Working on logo:

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dvollebregt

We started building the mold and profiler...

vinman

Are you vac pressing or pneumatic?

The vertical rise in the tail of your mold might be and issue for getting a bladder to conform and creating adequate pressure.

If it is vac it might not be as much of an issue.

skidesmond

Vin I agree, that bend in the tail is very steep. The Tip/tail blocks height maybe to high also for a pneumatic style press. A hose probably is not going to bend enough to fill the space. But a vac press might.

dvollebregt

We're pressing with a vacuum pump. The tail isn't that long as seen in the mold. We will make it less steep. Thanks for the tips!

dvollebregt

This week finished the mold and the profiler table

dvollebregt

Another weekend... (for profiler table used design from loganimlach, works perfect!)

dvollebregt

The layup! Time lapse!

http://vimeo.com/80411068

PowderKing

Ziet er goed uit! Gefeliciteerd!!! Snel testen

skidesmond

Nice video. Don't forget to give us a write-up on how they skied.

dvollebregt

So finally a review of the skis

We skied them for 3 seasons, this is the fourth. On average 4 weeks per season. Currently the back seems to wear and the edges are almost gone.

Skis work great off piste, ok on piste and good within moguls.

Pleased with this set!

Now preparing for making a new ones, however I would want to make them not as heavy. Maybe I will try other core material.

Keep you posted!

dvollebregt

New season, new skis, new techniques.

Cores to start with:

- B-Cores 200/250

- Palownia

- Bamboo

Flax and UD

New vacuum layup based on 333/community skis. Now building base mold and flexible mold for layup.

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SleepingAwake

I do not understand what's going on in your second picture, could you elaborate?

dvollebregt

We use the design from community skis.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ml5mJhhFJYI&t=1071s

Check movie min. 24 and on. We made a double mold, let's see what happens. We hope to make first pair this weekend. Depending on resin to arrive on time.

First layups

UD carbon

Flax 350

BCore

Flax 350

UD carbon

Triax 600 underfoot

Triax 600

Bamboo

Triax 600

Triax 600 underfoot

skidesmond

On your first layup, put the carbon next to the wood core and the flax over the carbon. Idk how much of a difference it makes but that's what I was told. Also in experiments that I've done having carbon between the flax makes the carbon more resistance to breaking... kind of makes it a bit more supple and lets it bend more before breaking. My 2 cents.

dvollebregt

So you suggest:

Flax 350

UD carbon

BCore

UD carbon

Flax 350

skidesmond

Yes, that how I do it.

SleepingAwake

I strongly disagree with that and I know of a few cases where this lead to problems. You generally try to have a smooth transition in stiffness in order to avoid shear stress on the interface. So always core to biax to UD.

If you want to have the UD against the core I would recommend putting a very light glass or polyester fleece in-between core and UD to give it a little bit of a tougher interface.

Furthermore you would want to change the core profile as well when you switch around layers like that.

gav wa

> SleepingAwake wrote:I strongly disagree with that and I know of a few cases where this lead to problems. You generally try to have a smooth transition in stiffness in order to avoid shear stress on the interface. So always core to biax to UD.

If you want to have the UD against the core I would recommend putting a very light glass or polyester fleece in-between core and UD to give it a little bit of a tougher interface.

Furthermore you would want to change the core profile as well when you switch around layers like that.

Do you think this applies to triax glass as well?

So don't have the 0 degree fibre against the core?

Wouldn't there always be a big differential against the UD layer?

SleepingAwake

> gav wa wrote:
> SleepingAwake wrote:I strongly disagree with that and I know of a few cases where this lead to problems. You generally try to have a smooth transition in stiffness in order to avoid shear stress on the interface. So always core to biax to UD.

If you want to have the UD against the core I would recommend putting a very light glass or polyester fleece in-between core and UD to give it a little bit of a tougher interface.

Furthermore you would want to change the core profile as well when you switch around layers like that.

Do you think this applies to triax glass as well?

So don't have the 0 degree fibre against the core?

Wouldn't there always be a big differential against the UD layer?
In theory this applies to fiberglass as well, but as your average carbon fiber is around 3 times stiffer than glass fiber the problem is less pronounced.

gav wa

Thanks for the info. I have been planning to make a set of foldable approach skis that aren't heavy and unreliable like mtn approach. I have some carbon ready to go but now i might add a bit of light glass between the core and carbon.

Cheers bro.