13 SKIS Building proces
Posts: 21 · 21 posts
dvollebregt
Hi all,
I'm new here, i'm from the Netherlands, Amsterdam. A few weeks ago I decided to build my own skis. In this topic I will post the progress!
I will probably ask some questions here and there
Duco
First design:
Wood:
Working on logo:
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vinman
Are you vac pressing or pneumatic?
The vertical rise in the tail of your mold might be and issue for getting a bladder to conform and creating adequate pressure.
If it is vac it might not be as much of an issue.
skidesmond
Vin I agree, that bend in the tail is very steep. The Tip/tail blocks height maybe to high also for a pneumatic style press. A hose probably is not going to bend enough to fill the space. But a vac press might.
dvollebregt
We're pressing with a vacuum pump. The tail isn't that long as seen in the mold. We will make it less steep. Thanks for the tips!
dvollebregt
The layup! Time lapse!
http://vimeo.com/80411068
PowderKing
Ziet er goed uit! Gefeliciteerd!!! Snel testen
skidesmond
Nice video. Don't forget to give us a write-up on how they skied.
dvollebregt
So finally a review of the skis
We skied them for 3 seasons, this is the fourth. On average 4 weeks per season. Currently the back seems to wear and the edges are almost gone.
Skis work great off piste, ok on piste and good within moguls.
Pleased with this set!
Now preparing for making a new ones, however I would want to make them not as heavy. Maybe I will try other core material.
Keep you posted!
dvollebregt
New season, new skis, new techniques.
Cores to start with:
- B-Cores 200/250
- Palownia
- Bamboo
Flax and UD
New vacuum layup based on 333/community skis. Now building base mold and flexible mold for layup.
image no longer available
image no longer available
SleepingAwake
I do not understand what's going on in your second picture, could you elaborate?
dvollebregt
We use the design from community skis.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ml5mJhhFJYI&t=1071s
Check movie min. 24 and on. We made a double mold, let's see what happens. We hope to make first pair this weekend. Depending on resin to arrive on time.
First layups
UD carbon
Flax 350
BCore
Flax 350
UD carbon
Triax 600 underfoot
Triax 600
Bamboo
Triax 600
Triax 600 underfoot
skidesmond
On your first layup, put the carbon next to the wood core and the flax over the carbon. Idk how much of a difference it makes but that's what I was told. Also in experiments that I've done having carbon between the flax makes the carbon more resistance to breaking... kind of makes it a bit more supple and lets it bend more before breaking. My 2 cents.
dvollebregt
So you suggest:
Flax 350
UD carbon
BCore
UD carbon
Flax 350
skidesmond
Yes, that how I do it.
SleepingAwake
I strongly disagree with that and I know of a few cases where this lead to problems. You generally try to have a smooth transition in stiffness in order to avoid shear stress on the interface. So always core to biax to UD.
If you want to have the UD against the core I would recommend putting a very light glass or polyester fleece in-between core and UD to give it a little bit of a tougher interface.
Furthermore you would want to change the core profile as well when you switch around layers like that.
gav wa
> SleepingAwake wrote:I strongly disagree with that and I know of a few cases where this lead to problems. You generally try to have a smooth transition in stiffness in order to avoid shear stress on the interface. So always core to biax to UD.
If you want to have the UD against the core I would recommend putting a very light glass or polyester fleece in-between core and UD to give it a little bit of a tougher interface.
Furthermore you would want to change the core profile as well when you switch around layers like that.
Do you think this applies to triax glass as well?
So don't have the 0 degree fibre against the core?
Wouldn't there always be a big differential against the UD layer?
SleepingAwake
> gav wa wrote:
> SleepingAwake wrote:I strongly disagree with that and I know of a few cases where this lead to problems. You generally try to have a smooth transition in stiffness in order to avoid shear stress on the interface. So always core to biax to UD.
If you want to have the UD against the core I would recommend putting a very light glass or polyester fleece in-between core and UD to give it a little bit of a tougher interface.
Furthermore you would want to change the core profile as well when you switch around layers like that.
Do you think this applies to triax glass as well?
So don't have the 0 degree fibre against the core?
Wouldn't there always be a big differential against the UD layer?
In theory this applies to fiberglass as well, but as your average carbon fiber is around 3 times stiffer than glass fiber the problem is less pronounced.
gav wa
Thanks for the info. I have been planning to make a set of foldable approach skis that aren't heavy and unreliable like mtn approach. I have some carbon ready to go but now i might add a bit of light glass between the core and carbon.
Cheers bro.