Divide Rides

So......Been readin and askin questions for a while now. Finally put some pics on photobucket to share.

This is a 160.6 early rise tip and tail. hint of camber underfoot(created by heat diff top bottom. 10mm taper/25mm stance setback. a perfect powder flex.

iso nylon

ghetto graphics

19 oz triax

maple core/bamboo sidewall/tiptail spacer 2.5-6.5-3

19 oz glass

ghetto graphics

egde/vds

crown natural sintered base

our press was a long time build. piece by piece as money was scarce. rounded up 2 partners for the hobby/venture, then things started movin.

we are workin on some skis, 3 splits, and another snowboard right now. more pics to come.

thanks everybody for the insight and helpfull hints.

Derek

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apparently I acant figure out the image posting process.

http://i1150.photobucket.com/albums/o60 ... 89b8c6.jpg

ok...dumb dumb here figured out how to post images, but not multiple in one post. hows it done?

You have to use the

In photobucket you just click the IMG tag and it copies it so you can just paste it to the post. In your first attempt none of your URL's had the ending [/img] tag to make the interweb know what you were doing. No spaces either.

You can see the IMG tag on the right. Just click this and then paste to your post. Start each photo on a new line.

In photobucket hover your cursor over the image you want.

A drop down menu appears.

Click on the image code that will copy it.

Back in your post right click and paste it.

Repeat as necessary.

sam

thanks sammer!

deleted

just finished up a new ride. about 159. stance/sidecut 1 inch back. slight board taper. tiny bit of camber between feet,early rise tip an tail. very similar to my last one. still getting things dialed in. then to some splits.

used Entropy CPM and cooked at 180F

iso 8210

19oz triax

x4 9oz uni carbon 1/2 inch strips running inserts to contact point-ish

maple core/ bamboo sidwalls

x2 9oz uni carbon 1 inch strips running inserts to inserts between

19oz triax

edge

crown natural base with some stencling.

Layup went well. Little core shift, and totaly forgot to put the VDS in. DUH!

since all i ride is knee to waist deep pow around here, i think ill be fine.

this is the last time I press a board without taking precautions for core shift.

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Knee to waist deep powder? Way to rub it in

The board looks great. How exactly did you do the base? It looks fantastic. Is the crown "natural" base translucent and you painted it?

looks like he painted it with acrylic paint like i recommended a couple times on here

Thanks twizz. yes I got the idea of painting bases from Chrismp. I actualy purchased some nazdar epoxy screen ink.

I cut out the letters and spray glued them to the underside of the base. Then I brushstroked the white around the letters. pulled the paper letters off, then when dry back filled with black using a roller.

things I learned - this paint is thick rolls great but does not brush well(little better when soup can of paint was hit with a blowtourch for a while) . For the bases I am currently working on I am using an arcilic paint for stencils, etc. and then backfilling with nazdar and a roller.

I have purchased some screen printing cloth and am going to make some screens with planed 1 inch lumber and try getting some decent logos banged out(though I kind or like the ghetto look).

Im gettin excited for the season. Things here are gettin cold. snow on the mountain tops.

I picked up some fall coloured yellow and red Maple leaves off the street yesterday. pressing them in a book to dry and going to put them under my next topsheet.

I got the building bug. All started when I broke my leg 2 seasons ago and stumbled upon this site while sippin coldied layed up on the couch.

Thanks everybody,

Derek

DTrain,

Hey I saw your skis with the yew sidewalls on facebook. I'm trying to increase the compressive strength of some paulownia cores without stiffening them up too much. Does the yew wood seem more flexible than say hard maple?

Do you have a referral for finding some pacific yew?

Exact same weight as hard maple. 20 percent softer on flex. Hard to find for sale. And clear wood almost impossible. I pulled em out of the bush myself. If your in Washington/Oregon you can find them

Ha, That's kinda what I have been learning. Thanks for the quick response. Reckon I'll just use the maple I have and adjust flex and weight elsewhere in the recipe.

It looks like the bow makers gobble up any clear yew at pretty good prices if you find some good logs.

hope everybody is well.......I'm starting to get itch cause the temps are dropping, though I haven't really been in the shop that much or at all over summer

sketched up a new shape for my oldest son Noah. He outgrew his last one

106cm

clear polymide topsheet

maple leaf

9oz uniglass

sitka spruce core w/ no sidewalls

18oz 0/90 biax glass

edge

black crown extruded

kids beginner pow stick

20mm setback stance

9mm of tail taper

A little camber

Entropy with a shot of blue dye (came out blotchy).......not enough dye probably, only used one drop.

The asym composites layup and top/bottom heating diff really allowed me to pull this thing convex along with the uni providing more torsional flex for his riding ability and weight.

Weird thing is though.....the running length was affected more than the tips. I figured it would be the other way around as there is less wood thickness for glass to offset it the tips?

Either way the catch should be eased up, and the things gonna rip pow!

Base shot is taken with bindings mounted (which flattened it out some)

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> Dtrain wrote:Weird thing is though.....the running length was affected more than the tips. I figured it would be the other way around as there is less wood thickness for glass to offset it the tips?

This looks mint! and I actually really like the blodgynes

Regarding the spoon - I would assume that the temperature difference between top and bottom in the tip and tail area smaller is, because the core is thinner. That would explain it.

Cheers, Reto

That sounds like it could be reason for sure, Appreciate the the feedback Reto.

Thanks,

Derek

> SleepingAwake wrote:
> Dtrain wrote:Weird thing is though.....the running length was affected more than the tips. I figured it would be the other way around as there is less wood thickness for glass to offset it the tips?

This looks mint! and I actually really like the blodgynes

Regarding the spoon - I would assume that the temperature difference between top and bottom in the tip and tail area smaller is, because the core is thinner. That would explain it.

Cheers, Reto

He looks pretty happy with them!

Kid looks super stoked, so great! Can't wait to see what comes out of your shop this year. Your shapes and splits are top notch!

DTrain, he looks stoked, kids are awesome.

I am wondering one thing though. I would have thought that since you only had glass going across the board on the base in the 90 degree orientation, that the base glass would have expanded with heat, then contracted after heating and curing and would pull the base into convex.

Do I have this backwards?

I'm curious to know as I am making my kids splitboards this year and will be using glass and I really have only used carbon and carbon-aramid blends and have not had problems getting flat bases, so no experience really.

You have it right Dave. As for this board the glass expands on bottom only because there is no 90 on top. When it shrinks it can’t pull flat because it must pull the core too. This is the reason as mentioned above there is less effect in the tips because the core is thinner along with less heat diff. top and bottom in those areas.

Thanks for your reply Dtrain and enjoy that snow up there!. Essentially dry down here, but enough to facet. I wrote my last message wrong.

So the take away is that the single side (the base) that has the 90 degree or cross board glass will end up expanded and make the base convex.

Could this be a resin expanding and not shrinking effect since your base was heated more than the deck and the effect was less where the core was thin?

My original thought was that the glass fiber expanded with heat and then contracted which in your case would have made the base concave ( I mistakenly wrote convex in last post).

I think I am inclined to just use 90 degree carbon and uni glass lengthwise. I really don't want to end up with a concave base.

Whatever you choose remember i only did this to create more torsinal flex for the little guy. The convex base is just a bonus on his board. If I wanted to spend more time on the board I could of just thinned the core out between the binding inserts to get the torsional flex. I would never want to thin the core out on a split where it will flex the most during touring. That said Splitboards flex way more torsionally as they are two pieces.....food for thought if anything! I don’t really have any idea what I’m doing. I used to think I wanted to sell boards and skis due to interest from others. That was just a big pain in my ass that killed the love for being in the shop. Now I’m happy just screwing things up for friends and family again! And ya it’s been dumping here up high. Getting out for a hike on the weekend. 🤘�.

Thanks, Yeah I have been getting mixed messages on the forum about whether its expansion or contraction of glass that makes glassed boards go out of flat sometimes. Time for me to just have a go.

I hear ya on fun in the shop versus building a side business. I think I have loved the tax benefits the most from having incorporated. If I even had to make 5 of the same board, I would be bored and it would be a drudge.

I read a long paper that tested composite expansion and contraction. the average fiberglass (unknown weave and weight) sample expanded .92 percent mixed with epoxy in a 75 degree celsius cure. It does expand when heated for sure. It is as what rate/how even and the same for the return to room temp and what core material, if any, it is encapsulating that create a wide array of variables!

Always wanted to timelapse. Think I used this old first gem go pro only a handful of times since new lol.

https://youtu.be/8birKOglGcY

Good one dtrain.

Is that cork for tip and tail spacers?

> falls wrote:Good one dtrain.

Is that cork for tip and tail spacers?

Yes sir! First time trying it. Saw the baguette snowboard guys doing it and Desmond! figured I’d try! 2.5mm and 4mm I found at local hardware store for $5 a sheet 24�x24�. Common carpet underlay! Perfect thicknesses to work around! Easy to cut too. Might be more prone to gauging on impacts, but I guess I’ll find out. I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again....we only deep fresh around here🤥

That hose you're using is huge!! May I ask what width it is and where you bought it?

> chrismp wrote:That hose you're using is huge!! May I ask what width it is and where you bought it?

It’s 12� fully inflated. Lays 19� across when flat. I bought it in Quebec , Canada. Can’t remeber the business name? Figured it would press 3D shapes with no cattrack and an appropriate mold, but I never got there yet🙄

Flashed her up. Pressed her on October 17th to celebrate the end of cannabis prohibition here in Canada!

156.4 cm/8m sidecut

325-280-305

Camber between inserts

Nylon top

Leaf

21 ounce triax basalt

Bamboo/paulownia core w/cork spacers and bamboo walls

21 ounce triax basalt

4 ounce uni carbon

Edge/4001 crown base

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Nice. Hows the weight compared to a non basalt board?

Btw. Your thread has 100k+ views! Respect

> mammuth wrote:Nice. Hows the weight compared to a non basalt board?

Btw. Your thread has 100k+ views! Respect

Not as light as a full carbon stick, but the paulownia made the core soft as a wet noodle. I should have left it thicker, which is why I added the full layer of UNI in there!

2780g/6.128lbs

derek

looks great

Did you build the cores or buy them?

I had a guy on instagram trying to sell me paulownia or paulownia bamboo cores out of china recently.

http://www.dmsjx.com/Products/Snowboard ... es/58.html

> falls wrote:looks great

Did you build the cores or buy them?

I had a guy on instagram trying to sell me paulownia or paulownia bamboo cores out of china recently.

http://www.dmsjx.com/Products/Snowboard ... es/58.html

Made it. Bought a few pieces. Light as shit, but complete garbage wood. Like 4-7 grains an inch. I was on “light train� for a while� but I’m over it! I’m just use red cedar if I need to shake weight. If it was cheap and you didn’t need to buy a few cubic meters min. It’s worth trying. The industry uses it because it’s light and cheap and already in china

2780grams is still a light board. Did it come out quite flexible though? Did you seal the core beforehand to try to stop the paulownia soaking up a heap of resin?

I usually like a board for myself to be about 2900 grams so it still rides solid. Surprised you dont use a lot of red cedar as it must be so easy to get over your way.

We used to have heaps of Paulownia plantations over here but they all went bust.

Its a great looking board. I llike the basic black with the leaf, goes well with the natural sidewalls.

> gav wa wrote:2780grams is still a light board. Did it come out quite flexible though? Did you seal the core beforehand to try to stop the paulownia soaking up a heap of resin?

I usually like a board for myself to be about 2900 grams so it still rides solid. Surprised you dont use a lot of red cedar as it must be so easy to get over your way.

We used to have heaps of Paulownia plantations over here but they all went bust.

Its a great looking board. I llike the basic black with the leaf, goes well with the natural sidewalls.

didn't seal! and ya it sucked up a butt load of resin. I could literaly watch it absororb! red cedar is great and readily available, I am sitting on piles of it here in the shop. I am partial to yellow cedar though. little heavier, but it cuts and planes and sands like nothing else Ive handled. and the smell is amazing. I have some pieces with almost 100 years of growth an inch! if anybody gets a chance to aquire some, I would heavily recommend it! not sure it i posted them in past journal entry, but i did make a couple splitboard cores out of single pieces of yellow cedar. that was awsome.

Deleted

@chrismp, I sent you a pm concerning some large diameter hose

> Dtrain wrote: ↑Thu Oct 18, 2018 6:04 pm
Always wanted to timelapse. Think I used this old first gem go pro only a handful of times since new lol.

Rancid - Rancid (2000) is such a great Album. One of my favourites of theirs.

D

Well here is a few thing I did this last summer/fall. 142cm pow skis for a buddies daughter, and a new directional stick for another buddies son.

I’m gonna try to get more active on here again. I want to dedicate more time to this hobby which has brought me so much joy in the past. Lately I haven’t had much time to get it all done. I’ve been doing some soul searching and realizing I need to work on getting the balance right. When I started this this hobby I would work on stuff all daylong all night long. After the wife and kids happened it shifted to just all night long. Then my two building buddies had their lives move into different direction, and staying up all night drinking beers and building shit just wasn’t happening anymore! FK me, I’m getting old, I’m getting responsibilities aggggghh. I blinked and it just happened. I’m starting to tell stories about “that time a while back” then buddies says “ya that was 8 years ago”. Laugh out fkn loud . 12 boards this summer/fall is my goal. I’m coming back baby. I wanna press, not stress!

As I've started to make boards that bend more, I have been backing up thin carbon laminates with innegra as the outer layer in the high load areas instead of S2 glass for the weight savings. It is pretty hyped so far as adding toughness to carbon composites. Won't know anything until this year is well under way here in Utah.

http://www.scenterprisesfiberglass.com/innegras.html

> 24Dave wrote:As I've started to make boards that bend more, I have been backing up thin carbon laminates with innegra as the outer layer in the high load areas instead of S2 glass for the weight savings. It is pretty hyped so far as adding toughness to carbon composites. Won't know anything until this year is well under way here in Utah.

http://www.scenterprisesfiberglass.com/innegras.html

I hear that! I've got some too. 45/45 Biax and some plain weaved stuff!

Have not pressed any carbon board yet this season. Hope too in the next while. I've seen that card folding video before, looks like the carbon/core will still break under massive Impact but the innegra will get ya back down the hill, adds some dampening too!

I'm guessing it beats fiberglass for beefing up a carbon laminate because it wets out better or doesn't absorb water, it dissipates impact better adding toughness to protect a carbon layer, because its lighter than fb, it has a higher ultimate breaking point.

The thing that makes me skeptical is whether the resin I'm using will stretch enough (11% or whatever the innegra fiber is supposed to elongate) to really allow the fiber to do its thing. Meaning, if the too-stiff resin on the base splits or cracks, it's just the core left and the strength of the fiber wasn't really utilized -- presuming the deck laminates have buckled already.

I don't want any of my boards to break, but it is hard to experiment with these things otherwise. I guess I'll just keep reducing fiber and core strength until I find that point, then start adding again. LOL

I'm guessing it beats fiberglass for beefing up a carbon laminate because it wets out better or doesn't absorb water, it dissipates impact better adding toughness to protect a carbon layer, because its lighter than fb, it has a higher ultimate breaking point.

The thing that makes me skeptical is whether the resin I'm using will stretch enough (11% or whatever the innegra fiber is supposed to elongate) to really allow the fiber to do its thing. Meaning, if the too-stiff resin on the base splits or cracks, it's just the core left and the strength of the fiber wasn't really utilized -- presuming the deck laminates have buckled already.

I don't want any of my boards to break, but it is hard to experiment with these things otherwise. I have a 5lb, 13 oz paulownia/maple rail 167 by 26.5 out there this year, but only under a 165lb rider. I guess I'll just keep reducing fiber and core strength until I find that point, then start adding again. LOL

If you manage to elongate the fibres by 11% the ski is trash anyway ;) Normal epoxies usually have around 3% elongation before they break, some up to 6%. This should be more than enough for our purpose.

Any of the "science mathematicians" here willing to do a quick calculation how much a ski would need to be bent in order to reach 10 elongation? Probably the ski is bent more than 180°?

Hope my writing is understandable, having kissing desease and the constant fever kills my intelligence.

I had a breakage issue with a custom titanal skwal with a carbon topsheet. Board manufacturer said it was a point load issue(explained a little on the Catek site). I use rigid solid aluminum bases on my bindings, no flex. If I were running a binding that had more flex built into it then the break might not have happened.

His solution was to run a polycarbonate plate underneath to disperse the point load. Now on an updated version of the same board and running the plates under my bindings and haven't had issues yet.

Here is one option, smaller footprint meant for alpine bindings.

http://shop.virus-snowsports.com/de/sho ... latten.htm

I use a cut-down version of these.

http://www.catek.com/snowboard-binding-spacers.htm

hmmm, did some more reading. I'm thinking the innegra will help protect the base layer composite from impacts, but probably not much help in board breakage which appears to usually be compression failure on the top side.

Could be best to just stack diamond shaped patches of unidirectional fiberglass ( or maybe Boron, edit: too expensive, $310 per board) on the deck in front and behind bindings and maybe the inside nose curve. I learned that woven fibers can have less than half the compression strength as unidirectional fibers due the angles of the weave in the fabric encouraging buckling.

Thanks for the pic Figment, and innegra actually elongates 9.5% not 11%, still, a lot.

http://www.specmaterials.com/pdfs/Enhan ... erties.pdf

http://www.specmaterials.com/pdfs/boron ... alysis.pdf

http://www-mech.eng.cam.ac.uk/profiles/ ... ers/80.pdf

Been a long time. I've kept up somewhat on some threads, and seen some of the new guys working through the glory ons pain.

Here a few shots of the last couple presses

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Some new cores next to a existing 55 twin for size reference.

They will be 164 powder machines.the cores are milled out of one piece yellow cedar. These splits have a bit of flash, but they are wide boards. 27cm waist width.

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Here's the next stash of sitka spruce. Literally got second pick to Martin guitars on this log. Tight, Center heart, and clear all the way through

And some pow porn shots of yours truly

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beautiful boards, I love the strong grain in your veneer you used, the one in pics 4&5 make the board look all dished out like a burton kids board, I dig it!

Do you cut those trees into slabs and let them dry for a summer before final milling? Reaally fresh and nice looking lumber there.

I went up to 27.5cm waist this year with size 11 feet, loving it!

Some stuff for the 2 plankers.......

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Dave, We usually just mill it all into 1x6, this tree had been sitting and drying for some time as is!

It still surprises me how much turns to dust and kindling in this hobby

> Dtrain wrote:Dave, We usually just mill it all into 1x6, this tree had been sitting and drying for some time as is!

It still surprises me how much turns to dust and kindling in this hobby
Haha, I cleaned out my workshop a bit in the weekend and also created a huge supply of kindling for the fire!

Are your side walls rounded?

Is there a reason for doing that?

On our skis we do 2 bevels and a cove round over on top. Stops veneer from chipping when skis bash together

Loving the look of those sticks mate, great stuff.

Great work!

Those boards look gorgeous! I'm sure the kids are stoked. If I got those when I was a kid they would be in my bedroom with me. It's not easy to find specialized gear like that for kids in most shop racks.

I hear what you're saying about changing priorities. Just owning a house seems like a full time job sometimes as there is always something to be fixed or upgraded. I just decided that I am finally going to remodel our master bath so definitely no ski building in my unemployment period. Ski building can definitely consume you. The last pair I built was my fastest start to finish and it still felt like I was living in the garage for the week. Hopefully I'll get back on it towards the end of the summer and we actually have some lift served skiing next year.

Nice! Great to see you back on it!

Man those look awesome !

Should have called and have a drink with you, I've been in Terrace for 3 weeks at my buddy's by Lakelse lake, touring the Shames BC because the hill was closed..