:: View topic - Core profiler table plans.

Making my way down my list and next up on the list is cores. Going to be working with a router. Not to sure what kind of bit will work best on bamboo, but I will worry about that later. The plan as it stands right now is to line up the router flushed with the bottom on the tray, and use the rails to create the shape of the core.

Side view of table

Front view of table

Side view of router tray

Top view of tray

Tray and Table

The tray is not going to be touching the table with its running boards.

Going to be using MDF for the tray and table. So what do all of you think of this plan? Will work out or not?

If the router bridge doesn't touch the side rails, how is it going to profile a shape into your core? Your side rails determine the shape/taper of the core.

I've had to deal with this before when my materials are taller than my rails.

With the way your drawing is the sled is sitting on your core. As you machine away the core it will eventually sit on the rails but is not a good way to start.

I would build a slider block out of hdpe to go right where the arrow is.

This will let your sled slide a lot nicer and fill the gap.

sam

troublemaker beat me to it

Yes the rails will determine the shape of the core. The height of the table and the shape of the core will be cut as one piece.

sammer

I'm going to shed some height of the core with a pre cut to size before putting it on the table.

Watch this great video, about one minute in you can see an excellent router bridge set-up. This is about the best router bridge I've seen, I especially like the vacuum table and roundway guides.

Kingswood Skis

http://vimeo.com/11913875

-S

Wow I like that setup.

Thats an awesome table, but mine is going to be nothing like that sadly.

Are the adjustment bolts welded to the steel rails and adjustment is done at the nut on top and presumably below the table?

Beautiful!

Especially the vacuum setup. Need to try that, as I haven't had much success with planer crib, or my router setup. I especially love the adjust-ability of that with the threaded rods. Hmmmmmm, mind spinning.

here some more food for thought.

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/29019-first-use-my-skis.html

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/25155-wanted-pictures-your-skiis-2.html

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/1992

Im with you DBS, I have just about had it with my planer set up.

I have been thinking of using some 1/2" keyed shaft like this:

It also looks like he is using a face mill bit or a spoilboard surfacing bit on the router.

Can you band hardened shaft? How can you see from the video what router bit he's using?

Another option bottom cleaning bit

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_bottm.html

I'm sure 1/2" dia x 6' piece will bend...there is also keyed alum shaft.

-only problem might be the transition into the tip/tail area. Kingswood ends the core staight and uses all tip fill.

I think for simplicity and cost regular black iron pipe1/2" or 3/4" will work just fine.

maybe:

belt sender the tips.

Readjust the rails for straight cut or have separate set of rails for straight cut

also rails can be adjusted so they going straight after taper is ended. not sure how well this will work. Haven't tried it

another option just go with all tip fill

I got one of those in 1 1/2". Those bids can goes as wide as 2 3/4".... How is a finish?

3/4" bend nicely and hold nice curvature from tip to center to tail. I tried few other profiles and didn't like the results.

yes it does. Until table completed and rails installed I can't definitely say how it's all going to work out. For now for simplicity purposes I'm going to go with making boot center peak of the taper

did you try to make templates for camber section of the mold on your table? Also I thought about making sidecut radius templates on a table

The finish on my cores come out great , the only reason I don't use a bigger bit is that was the biggest one my local hardware had.

The camber mold that I use I made basically freehand. I didn't use the table, I made a jig and used a bearing type bit to follow the first one.

To get sidecut I get patterns cut out on a local cnc.

Yes Jon that press is mighty mighty. I decided right away that if i was going to do this I had to build a press that I wouldn't outgrow.

Just picked up some wood for the cores, Poplar and maple as well as this nice bit.