unknownWed Aug 29, 2012 2:06 pm
I was wondering if anyone has thought About using a bandsaw to profile cores. I have an 18 inch bandsaw that can resaw cores beautifully, but I'm not sure how to resaw at an angle.
Does anyone have a good idea how to set up a jig or fence on the bandsaw to resaw the cores at an angle? It would leave a rough finish but could easily sand that area and the rest of the core would have a planer finish.
My design for profiling cores is keeping uniform thickness for most of the ski and just taper at tip and tail at a straight line. Nothing fancy. So going with this same design I think I could probably hit an acceptable tolerance resawing cores but I am dumbfounded on how to push a block thru the bandsaw at an angle.
I have been using mostly the router bridge method. Switched to the planer method recently. I think both are too slow.
unknownWed Aug 29, 2012 2:19 pm
I built a jig for this exact thing, with amazing results on test cores (including sidewalls). However each time I've tried to do it with an actual core, somehow I screwed it up.
If you're good at re-sawing, then you know all the tricks, and need to have a razor sharp blade, etc etc.
I'll try to find my thread with pictures of my jig. I still used a profile board (MDF that was CNC'd with my profile), same as I would with the planer, but I ran it through the bandsaw sideways, with a roller on some springs pushing the core into the planer board. Just like the planer, the idea is to cut a straight line on a warped board.
Your idea about having a "constant thickness along most of the ski" is a bit crazy though. They'll ski like 2x4's
unknownWed Aug 29, 2012 2:46 pm
I have thought of Doing something similar to that, but you still have to glue cores to rails. I want to get away from hot glue.
I was thinking of some how being able to push the core thru at an angle like with a fence that is angled.
But if I simply clamp a fence that is angled, the cores will just bend the blade I think. I think I need an angled fence that can move in the slot on the cast iron table. But seems like that slot works best for small pieces of wood and not sure how it would work with a long piece of wood.
I have an 18 inch bandsaw so I have the power but not the technique.
Off topic but To clarify: The middle 3rd of the ski is uniform thickness . The thickness starts to taper about 1/3 of the total distance from tip and tail. But that's all off topic and belongs in a design thread
unknownThu Aug 30, 2012 7:38 am
I used no hot glue.
The top surface of my planer board is covered in skateboard grip tape. You just place the core on the board, turn it sideways, and run the whole thing through the saw. It's super fast.