:: View topic - Section8 2012-2013

Figured I get started on this seasons journal even though skiing is still about 5 months away. Haven't done much since last season... Mentored a fellow ski builder from Virginia in june, that was a good time, and now he's hooked too.

A proper cat track is in the works. In the past I've used MDF and/or plywood. MDF/plywood worked but occasionally a rib work crack and made it frustrating. I solved part of the problem by using a 4 foot piece of Plywood in the middle of the cat track and used a ribbed cat track on each end. That worked great for the middle but still got some breakage on the ribs.

So I spent couple hours today cutting AL square tubing, 3/4 x 3/4 inch with a 1/8in wall. I think a 1/16in wall would be adequate but the supplier only had 1/8. I'll spend the next few days cleaning burrs off and drilling holes to wire it up.

Also did some sample layups using carbon fiber last night. I will do some testing on it. I'll post the testing info in my other post in the next couple days: http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=3868

Hybrid sidewall

Seems like a lot of work desmond with all the negatives of bonding uhmwpe and not all the positives of a uhmwpe sidewall.

I like wood sidewalls. I have found them to be durable, but my biggest trouble is that everything I have painted on to seal them seems to be abraded off by skiing. Maybe just haven't found the right sealant yet?

I like the wood sidewalls and prefer them because of the simplicity and looks. But I'm thinking of the masses, the folks who only know of plastic sidewalls who may be turned off from wood thinking that it's not durable.

My thought was to route the channel in the core then lay 2 strips of p-tex base (or if you can get 2mm ptex, that would work ok) in the groove, glue in place (epoxy or poly-u glue) and then use spring clamps told hold the p-tex in place until the glue sets. Keeping excess glue out off the core and out of the groove could be problematic.

Yea does seem like a lot of work. :-) But pouring a partial sidewall wouldn't seem too bad.

Falls - Try System Three LPU. I've had good success with it.

http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/WR-LPU-Topcoat-c29.htm

I still stand by the boiled linseed oil.

120+ days and still like new on the original everydayfatties.

I've never reapplied, its so easy I dont know why I haven't 'cept I haven't needed to.

Takes a couple days to dry (soak in) then your good to go :-)

I'll be sticking with wood sidewalls until something (drastic) changes my mind.

sam

Yeah. I'm not sure if it is the bamboo, but I have tried the boiled lindseed oil and it didn't seem to penetrate very well and after a day skiing the sidewall looked bare again. I think the bamboo is pretty water resistant just by itself but this means that finishes don't pentrate it and stick that well.

SD,

I think I had a bash at this approach, but using ABS. It works fine and connects the tips and tailspacers. The drawback is the increase the number of layers that can delaminate.

Have you thought about using urethane (chrismp). Instead of routing out say 12mm. Just route as you intend and fill them up. It means your core needs to be a little wider, but the material will be bonded to the wood. It's a direction I would like to travel, but just don't have the time at the moment.

Rich - I think poured urethane like Chrismp does is the way to go, if you don't want wood sidewalls. I'll continue to make wood sidewalls for myself.

I'm looking for a good alternative for those who are turned off by wood sidewalls, whatever their reason. And I want to make it easy on myself too.

Here's what the sample looks like:

I understand: http://skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2405&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=75

I'm just suggesting Chrismp method, but to a different depth. It avoids using UHMWPITA plastic. I thought something around 3 or 4mm - tapering to 1mm if required. Creating the channel requires is no great shakes, you just need slightly wider cores.

Great use of excess material BTW! I would be conscious of the step you are creating in the FG layer (two layer to one layer boundary of the base material). Square corners when flexed are going to crack over time?