hey there,
i want to get a planer fro profiling my core, till now i do everything on router bridge. i ve checked out the makita and dewalt, makita has no table (i still don t know if i need it, not for skis bur who knows...) dewalt is a bit over my budget.
what types of planers do you have, what specifications should i look for?i ve read something about "spiral cutter"...!?
thx sir
I have a delta 22-560 that i bought in the UK (shipped to austria). Shipping was done by www.ecoparcel.eu. They shipped this 30kg parcel for only 35 EUR!!
i know how hard/expensive it is to get this type of planer in germany/austria, that's why i looked for used ones in the UK. Paid a total of 160 EUR for mine!
Wow chrismp - what a great buy!
Orange, Have you checked out whether you have a fab lab in your local area? It's worth check out the price of blades before you buy and whether they can be re-ground locally ; )
I have an older portable Delta 12in model. Spiral head cutters are better but you'll pay a premium. Find one that minimizes sniping.
snipe is a non issue if your planer is set-up correctly and you support the crib while sending it through.
I have a Ryobi 13" planer, and it does ok if the blades are sharp (however I've never had luck planing cores all the way with sidewalls, they get chewed up pretty bad during the last few passes)
I have a rigid 13 inch. It has a 3 blade cutting head. Nice unit. I'm with chrismp on the snipe issue. For me the issue with sidewalls is about 50% success. Although I've been able to prevent them from being destroyed 100% of the time. I feel this is mainly a bonding issue. The better the bond between the core and sidwall the more likely I am to be successful at getting them though the profiling step without damage. Sharp blades are also a Must for this
I press laminated some uhmw to veneer with epoxy and the bond was great to the core becasue I glued the veneer side with wood glue to the core. Took a beating in the planer. Similar to what Vin did but bending the sidewall would be tough with a stiff/thick piece of wood I thought, especially in a 5 dim ski shape.
MM I was pleasently surprised that bending the sidewall to the core was not too bad. Granted I used almost every clamp I own to do it... But with 4 way clamps and speed clamps alternated I was able to form things nicely.
I'm trying another trick this time also. I'm leaving about 2 inches of sidewall extending to to where the tip spacer will be as sacrificial material. I'm putting a 45 deg miter on the tip of the sacrificial piece thinking the planer blade will have less profile to potentially catch and pull on. Then that gets cut away after profiling when I shape the tip to attach the tip spacer.
No idea if it will work but it sounds good.
We did that on a few cores and that was actually when the sidwall separtaed from the core when we put it on the chop saw to cut that extended piece off.
Thanks for that info I'll be sure to be careful at that point. I wonder if it will matter where the sidewall gets cut? My suspicion is that if I cut the sidewall close to the apex of the bend there could be enough tension to make it separate......hmmmm. This has me thinking some. Maybe cutting it in an area that is not under great tension would be better?
Ideas?
once again (i think i've posted this in about every thread that discusses planers ripping off sidewalls)...SHIF uses scrap pieces of wood as idler pieces which prevent the sidewalls from ripping off. This works great! (pouring polyurethane sidewalls to the core works well too
)
here's a picture to illustrate:
Those are some beefy sidewalls, are you using a straight core and then shaping you ski by cutting away sidewall?
I like the idea with wood block in front. I may try that was well. Thanks
this is not a photo taken by me. it's one of SHIF's cores, so you'll have to ask him that.
I tried something like that and still had no luck
I'm still convinced a drum sander would be ideal, but they're a) expensive, and b) dusty. I haven't tried profiling on my CNC yet, hopefully that has marginal success with sidewalls.
Not sure if others have tried this... but I've had good results with hot glue and duct tape running the last 15 cms of sidewall. I think most of the problems come from the sidewall lifting off the crib and "vibrating" into the cutter heads.
No sir Vinman, I cut the sidecut shape into the core prior to attaching the sidewall blocks. Then I taper both ends of the core assembly using my planer. Then I thin down the ends to match the tip filler, parallel and 2mm thick, using a 4x24 belt sander with 40 grit. Takes a little time and practice but the results are almost perfect. I measure the core thickness at multiple locations, every 10cm along the length, and enter the data into a spreadsheet chart to analyze the profile. Usually only need three interations of sanding and measuring to achieve near perfection. I would like to have a heavier duty planer to use the crib method, or better yet a CNC router.
This photo is taken back when I was using black UHMW sidewalls. I stopped using that stuff after a few ski delams. Also don't like the added dead weight of plastic sidewalls. Now I use Amazon rainforest hardwoods for sidewalls. Bonds much better to the bamboo core and looks terrific. I've had excellent results using both Massaranduba and Ipe decking materials as sidewalls. And by the way, they do not absorb water.
Hey Chris, I'm flattered that you keep posting my old photos in your threads. Thanks for the accolade.
-S
Shif, my process is pretty much exactly what you describe. I also hand sand my tip and tail with the belt sander to match the spacer material.
I might do more measuring and fine tuning with the sander as you describe. But I want to keep as much of a planed surface as possible for bonding purposes.
No i don't know !
I'm going to build a variable Z cnc abrasive planer for sidewalls. Pretty sure it'll be the best way for the plastics.
