I want to mimic the flex profile of the older EP Pro or Line Elizabeth models. Maybe not quite so soft, but close.
Should I just be looking at a 19oz. glass, and 10mm max core thickness, or something else entirely?
And should I be looking to match core material with Maple?
thanks!
That's really not enough information. What are your tip thicknesses? Will it be a linear taper, or some other shape? You could do a 10mm center... and 10mm tips, and you'll have a non-skiable 2x4!
I think this is really a case of "build it and see". If you have a pair of the skis you're trying to mimic, measure the thickness at regular intervals down the entire length to get a profile shape. Then make your core match that.
For what it's worth, my powder skis are 10mm centers down to 2.5mm tips (closer to 3mm in the tail), with 20oz triax and some cf as well. I use bamboo cores, and I'd say they are a little bit softer than the old EP pros.
Yep. Doing different weights of fiberglass top and bottom will not only change how the ski performs, but it may also cause changes in camber after pressing (depending on what you do you might get more camber, or you might get less). How much the change will be is hard to calculate with any accuracy (because of the inherent variables with hand-building). Once again, that's a case of build-it-and-see unfortunately.
Like I posted before, 20oz triax fiberglass top and bottom, with a ~3" wide strip of CF.
I use inserts, so no binding reinforcement.
My personal thought is that a 2.2-10-2.2 core profile will be a noodle, especially if you are using lighter weight glass.
When I'm building for friends and they tell me they want a medium flex I let them flex my skis which usually are 2.2-12-2.3, which I feel are stiff. If they think that this is too stiff for them I go with something like 2.2-11.6 or 11.8- 2.2.
i typically go from 10-12 mm in the middle to about 4-6mm on the tails and 4-6mm on the tip. the reason this works for me is that i am making rocker tip flat camber skis, a so the ski doesn't need to flex very much because it is already in the correct shape to shred the pow. at 4mm they have a lot of flex and at 6 mm they are real stiff. but if your mold has a heavy contour on the tips, then you won't be able to bend 6mm into that shape thats for sure. also i don't use tip spacers either... i have built about 25 pairs with no tip spacers, seems to work fine with my rocker mold, but again if you have a heavy contour in the tip or tail then maybe tip spacer i necessary.
anyways, the different between 19oz and 22 oz isn't going to be noticeable in my opinion. but if you go to like 30 oz, then you should start to have a noticeable difference.
i tend to air on the side of stiff for skis because the ski will be stronger, especially if you aint no soft cock.
do you weigh over 350lbs?
The thickness's you are talking about are insane.
Please put down the bong, step outside and breathe some fresh air.
First off there is a very noticeable difference between 19oz and 22oz - but it will still be a ski. 30 oz with a core that was skiable in 22oz would be like an I beam.
as MontuckyMadman said, unless you are very heavy 4-6mm in tip and tail would be cazy
On the other hand 10-12mm underfoot is normal.
petemorgan(pmoskico) -
when you refer to 4-6mm in the tip and tail are you referring to the wood core or finished thickness? A 4-6mm finished thickness makes sense, a 4-6mm wood core is.... is.... extreme. I don't see how you can bend a wood core ski tip that's 4-6mm thick unless you steam the wood first or use thin layers of wood/plastic in the tip. I tried to bend a 4-5mm solid wood tip once just for kicks and the wood cracked under pressure.
